Half of Europe seems captivated by Scotland's new North Coast 500 route. Mark Jones takes to this circular drive to uncover the remote yet breathtaking landscapes along its path.
Sometimes, all it takes is a glance at a map to ignite inspiration. Legend has it that someone noticed a circular route on a map of the Scottish Highlands, stretching from Inverness Castle up to John O’Groats at Britain’s northeastern tip, then southward along the rugged west coast.
Spanning over 500 miles (around 800 kilometers), the journey can be completed over a long weekend, although a full week allows for a more leisurely experience.
This route needed a name to give it identity. Just as the U.S. has the iconic Route 66 and South Africa boasts the Garden Route, Scotland now has the North Coast 500, often abbreviated as NC500.
Since its launch in 2015, the NC500 has become a cultural phenomenon. Branded merchandise like T-shirts and jackets bearing the NC500 logo is readily available, and dedicated travel guides provide detailed advice for explorers.
The route's popularity is evident once you're on the road. In two visits, travelers ranged from cycling enthusiasts from Leicester to German models and stylists on a tour bus, as well as old friends from Glasgow reconnecting on the drive. Restaurants along the way highlight the importance of reservations due to the influx of tourists, while less-prepared establishments bemoan the hype. NC500 requires constant movement, with most visitors staying only a night in each location.
Here, the focus is on three particularly magical segments of the NC500, rather than a comprehensive overview. The journey reveals otherworldly landscapes whose eerie beauty rivals anywhere in Scotland, Scandinavia, or even the world.
For many, road trips in Scotland carry personal significance. Years ago, after a sudden job loss, a hit of luck allowed for six more months with a company car, a black 1988 Alfa Romeo Spider Veloce. With a carefree spirit, a spontaneous decision to head north to Scotland led to unforgettable adventures. Since then, no car has matched that experience. For this NC500 journey, an automobile aficionado recommended the Bentley Bentayga, a luxury SUV suited for overtaking slow campers while delivering a premium driving experience.
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Segment One: Inverness to Alladale
The Scottish Highlands are often misunderstood, especially their history. While the landscape may seem timelessly wild, this rugged terrain has long been inhabited by the Picts, an ancient tribal people known as much for their art as their martial prowess.
Starting in Inverness, the journey crosses the Cromarty Bridge before arriving at Glenmorangie House, a distillery hotel perfect for the first night. Visitors can walk along the coastline to meet Barry Grove, a sculptor who recreated a famed Pictish stone, the Hilton of Cadboll, whose original fragments are now housed in Edinburgh’s National Museum of Scotland. Grove's work is a testament to the Picts’ artistic legacy, showcasing their beliefs, customs, and daily lives.
This segment of the trip passes through Royal Dornoch Golf Club and picturesque Georgian towns before heading into the untamed wilderness of Alladale.
Contrary to its seemingly untouched appearance, much of the Highlands’ landscape is man-made. Historically, local flora and fauna were displaced to create hunting estates for deer stalking and grouse shooting. However, Paul Lister, the owner of Alladale, is working to rewild 9,300 hectares of land, reintroducing native trees like Scots pine and wildlife like otters and foxes. His ambitious plan even includes reintroducing wolves and bears, sparking both excitement and concern among locals.
Segment Two: Alladale to Ullapool
From the rolling hills of Dornoch and Glenmorangie on the eastern stretch of the NC500, the journey heads north before turning westward into Assynt, a region of extraordinary geological history.
The area’s ancient rocks, some dating back 3.8 billion years, create an unworldly landscape. Peaks like Stac Pollaidh and Suilven appear as though sculpted by a novice game designer, with jagged and surreal formations.
A highlight of this leg is Kylesku Hotel, a modern-day waypoint offering exceptional seafood in a nautical-themed setting. Reservations are essential due to the NC500's popularity.
The route then veers along narrow, winding single-track roads past Drumbeg, where rocky terrain known as “inselbergs” mimics scattered icebergs. Human habitation here is sparse, with only 1,011 residents spread across Assynt’s vast expanse.
Amid this rugged wilderness, the journey unveils a surprising treasure: Achmelvich Beach. Positioned at the same latitude as Norway and Alaska, its fine white sands and turquoise waters feel more Caribbean than Highland. This phenomenon is thanks to the Gulf Stream, which warms this otherwise frigid coastline.
The day ends at Loch Broom in Ullapool, a fishing village steeped in charm and history. Whether dining on multi-course meals at Ceilidh Place or sharing a serendipitous New Year’s feast with Romanian sailors, Ullapool consistently delivers unforgettable experiences.
Segment Three: Ullapool to Diabaig
Skipping the western NC500 stretch, the journey continues directly to Kinlochewe and Loch Torridon. Along the way, a vast valley emerges, recalling scenes from a classic John Ford Western, with winding roads framed by rust-colored mountains and snow-capped Munros.
From Torridon, a narrow 13.8-kilometer detour leads to Lower Diabaig, home to one of the UK's most thrilling roads. Hairpin turns and sheer drops to the sea make for a nerve-wracking drive, but the reward is the tranquil lakeside village of Diabaig.
Here, Gille Brighde restaurant offers warm hospitality and fresh, wholesome meals—a fitting end to a day of hiking, swimming, or driving through the Highlands.
Though the journey back to Inverness may take hours, the Highlands’ mystique lingers, leaving an indelible mark on all who traverse its storied landscapes.
